Loch Maree in the North West Highlands of Scotland

Bring at least a medium-price digital camera or a good 35 millimeter single lens reflex camera with a 28 millimeter wide angle and telephoto lens - and plenty of 200 ASA or higher film. Disposable cameras simply don't capture the ever-changing light conditions in this region of the world.

The only practical way is by car. We recommend a drive of 108 miles to take in Loch Maree and all the other lochs of Wester Ross. In this part of Scotland, there are no motor ways or interstate highways like in the USA or Canada. Many of the roads around here are either one-lane each way or single lane. Be a considerate driver and don't speed.

Note how even some large tour buses going to or from places like Inverewe Gardens will pull off at Loch Maree for a while for the enjoyment of passengers.

If you appreciate fine gardens, go before or after visiting the superb Inverewe Garden at Poolewe 13 miles further north.

Make very sure you have a full fuel tank of petrol (gas) beforehand, as petrol stations are scarce in the region. Come prepared for a comfortable and relaxing drive through low farmlands and high mountains, from where you are staying. Get an early start, after a good Scottish breakfast and a visit to a food store for a lunch picnic.

It is on the way to and south east of Poolewe and Gairloch in Wester Ross on the north west coast, off Loch Ewe. If it rains, see how it enhances the sheen of the loch. Do not worry if it is not completely sunny, but wear a jacket, take an umbrella - just in case. Use a stout pair of shoes and do some walking along the trails or paths.

Remote and lonely but lovely

	Loch Maree is a glorious, must see attraction. The only road to take is the A832 from Garve or Achnasheen. The scenic and narrow road goes from Gairloch to Poolewe to Aultbea to Laide to Gruinard to Badcaul to Dundonnell to Braemore Junction to Gorstan to Garve to Acnasheen to Kinlochewe and finally past Loch Maree back to Gairloch. The harmonious environs of this loch include tall Scots pines and the mountain Slioch looming over it. Much of the tree cover was destroyed in the 18th century but has recovered up to a point - oak now grows only in the northern limits.
	There are many small wooded islands in it. One, Isle Maree, still bears oak trees, sacred trees of Scottish Druids who once worshipped here. It also has the ruins of a very early chapel once the hermitage of Saint Maelrubha in the mid 7th century. He was one of the most prominent pioneers in Celtic Christianity. All the islets on the loch are controlled by the Nature Conservancy authority. Permission must be obtained from it for any landing to help preserve a valuable refuge for threatened wildlife.
	In 2008 it it possible to hire a boat from what used to be the Loch Maree hotel, but is now for private large group hire, to cross the loch in order to access mountains on the other side. Instead of taking a direct route, the boat may detour (seemingly unnecessarily) round the back of Isle Maree. If you query it you will learn learn that there is an ancient causeway between the islands once used for transferring cattle from one to the other. Although there is a small gap in it for boat passage it is tricky and simpler to detour round the back of the island. If you are made aware of it in advance on the return boat journey, the yellow line of the causeway can be clearly seen below the water.
	The south east shore is dominated by the huge mass of Slioch. The south west is within the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve. The loch, noted for its sea-trout, is overlooked on all sides by beautiful mountains. Even in September it should be warm enough - about 65 degrees Fahrenheit. At other stops by the loch, we encountered a uniquely scenic one lane road with passing places. You will find spectacular views of the mountains and stunning vistas of Loch Maree as you climb and turn, as we did! Spend time exploring instead of just "doing" one place after another. Make the most of this gorgeous area. Nice things about driving in more remote parts of Scotland such as this include the lack of traffic jams.

Author Keith Forbes took most of these photographs above and below. With him are co-author Lois Ann Forbes and her late sister Carolyn Marie Rose (in the red top and white trousers). She too had a special attachment to this loch.

For up to 15 minutes at a time, we saw no other traffic on the roads going to, from and past Loch Maree. Further on, look for the sign for Victoria Falls.

It is a waterfall named after the Queen who visited them.

See many places nearby with fields of hay formed into cylindrical haystacks.

Also see several different kinds of cattle - like in the photograph - and sheep grazing everywhere.

When we saw them they seemed even more bold, crossing the road and even napping in the road.

At one point, we spotted some that insisted on photographs.

So we pulled off the road to oblige them. Red deer sighting are common.

Bring your binoculars to see another local denizen, the pine marten. It is a rare Scottish animal.

More wildlife can be seen, including red & roe deer, otters, golden eagles, sea eagles, barn owls, and the rare black throated diver.

Nearby places to see in the area include

Achnasheen

Ross and Cromarty. A hamlet south of Kinlochewe, on the A832. See it for its lonely railway station and hotel. But it occupies an important geographical position, a watershed area between east and west in a central part of the North Highland mainland. To the west is Loch Maree. To the south east is Sgairr Vaillin. There is lovely hill and loch country around.

Badachro

Ross and Cromarty. A village 6 miles by road to the southwest of Gairloch, in a bay sheltered by Harrisdale Island.

Ben Eighe

The first National Nature Reserve of its kind in Great Britain. It was declared such on November 1, 1951. It is directly south of Loch Maree, situated in the western and wilder part of Ross and Cromarty. The reserve consists of 10,507 acres with altitudes ranging from 30 feet to 3,000 feet. It has a wide range of vegetation, including alpine growths. Creatures living naturally in this reserve include the red deer, the wild cat (the true wild cat of Scotland, the felis silvestris), eagle and pine marten. There is a field station, built by the Nature Conservancy, on the western shore of Loch Maree. It is at Annancaun, 1 mile north of Kinlochewe. A trail leads from there to the reserve.

Corrieshalloch Gorge

Ross and Cromarty. A spectacular canyon with the 150 foot falls of Measach. It is by the roadside on the way west from Inverness to Ullapool. The ravine is a sheer plunge of some 200 feet and about 1 mile long. Wooded paths lead to a suspension bridge which has a superb view of the chasm and Falls of Measach, sweeping down to the head of the gorge.

Dundonnell

Ross and Cromarty. A village at the head of Little Loch Broom. A good climbing center. From here are outstanding views of the Torridon sandstone peaks of An Teallach, forming some of the strangest shaped mountains of the Scottish mainland. The road from here northwards id called "Destitution Road" - because it was one of several constructed after the potato famine of 1846-7 when food and nothing more than food was provided for work. It has long been one of the ironies of history that while all have heard of the potato famine of Ireland, none know it affected Scotland just as severely and in fact had worse repercussions because the high terrain does not permit the same level of crop farming as in Ireland.

Gairloch

Ross and Cromarty. The nearest town, to the northwest of Loch Maree, is superbly situated in a sheltered, sandy bay of the great sea loch known as Loch Gairloch. It is a wide arm of the sea that is almost a bay. It has some of the best West Highland scenery. There is a wonderful view out to sea, west over the bay, to the distant "Long Island" (the Outer Hebrides). There are fine sandy beaches for swimming - especially at Big Sand 3 miles away, on the road to the crofting township of Melvaig, 8 miles north west, from which a path leads to the Rudha Reidh lighthouse. But be warned that the water may be cold to Americans from the southern USA. There is a small harbor and good fishing by the fishing boats based here, the village has become a vacation resort. It has a golf course, rare in this remote part of Scotland. A fascinating sight for visitors is the returning fishing fleet bringing salmon in the morning and prawns, lobsters and crabs in the evening. Others are the majestic hills of Torridon to the south west and the peaks of Flowerdale behind the township. Flowerdale House was the seat of the Mackenzies of Gairloch and was described as Tigh Dige by Osgood Mackenzie, that remarkable 19th-century Highland Gaelic-speaking laird and character, in his "One Hundred Years in the Highlands." The history of this typical North West Highland parish is traced in the range of interesting exhibits of the Gairloch Heritage Museum.

Inverewe Garden

Lovely, not to be missed, about 13 miles away by car, but it is suggested you call ahead to confirm opening times.

Kinlochewe

Ross and Cromarty. This small town is at the south east head of Loch Maree further inland. It has outstanding West Highland scenery. It offers good climbing on the Torridon Hills and is near the National Nature Reserve of Beinn Eighe.

Laide

Ross and Cromarty. A crofting village on Gruinard Bay. This area and the bay have sandy beaches backed by mountain scenery. At one time, the beaches had a murky history, now gone. They were forbidden to the public because of anthrax experimentation. That was many decades ago. Now they are safe to see. When we saw them, the sands were a gorgeous dark pink! Even darker than the pink beaches of the Bahamas and Bermuda. Enjoy the views of Gruinard Island.

Loch Ewe

A sea loch about 10 miles long beyond Loch Maree, has small centers of habitation along its east coast. Loch Ewe is fed by the River Ewe after its course from Loch Maree. It is famous for its salmon and sea trout. In both world wars, Loch Ewe was of naval importance.

Poolewe

Ross and Cromarty. A village at the head of Loch Ewe, well known for its excellent trout and salmon fishing, on the west side of the county. Inverewe Garden juts out into the loch on a promontory about 1 mile around the shore from the village. The approaches to Poolewe from Inverness make it one of the most magnificent scenic touring circuits in the Highlands.

Slatterdale Forest

Torridon Hills

Adjacent to Loch Maree. There is good climbing on the adjacent, with outstanding West Highland scenery. From here, hikers can begin their trek to Beinn Eighe.

Ullapool

Ross and Cromarty. On the shores of Loch Broom, it is a pleasant and picturesque small coastal township. It was founded in 1788 by the British Fisheries Society as an extensive fishing station, mainly for herring and white fish, because Loch Broom had been a major fishing area since the 16th century. The street plan and design of some of the homes were vetted in the early 19th century by the famous Scotsman Tomas Telford. It is noted for its whitewashed homes and wide streets with street names in both Gaelic and English. The fishing trade declined in the early 19th century but revived during World War 2 when much of the east coast of Britain was mined and dangerous. It is still a center for fishing. It is also a holiday center for a variety of events and has a petrol (gas) station, a rare commodity on roads this far north. It is a fair distance from Inverness, but can be seen from there in one day. It is best appreciated by those who do not have to get back to a hotel or lodging in a hurry. We saw Scottish sheep not far from fishing boats once we got to the coastal areas, as the photo shows.

Places to stay

There are quite a few hotels, guest houses and bed and breakfast places in the region.